Matting artwork is the process of adding a border around a piece of art before framing it. What is matting artwork? It’s a crucial step in framing that enhances the visual appeal, protects the artwork, and adds a professional touch. Can I mat my own art? Absolutely! This guide will walk you through everything a beginner needs to know about matting artwork, from choosing the right materials to mastering basic techniques. Who is matting artwork for? Anyone looking to present their art beautifully and protect it for years to come.
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Why Mat Your Artwork?
Picture framing mats are more than just pretty borders; they serve vital functions.
Protecting Your Art
- Keeps art from touching the glass: This is perhaps the most important reason. When the artwork directly touches the glass, moisture can cause it to stick, leading to damage. A mat creates a buffer.
- Prevents mold and mildew: Proper matting, especially with archival materials, helps manage moisture and airflow, reducing the risk of mold and mildew growth on your art.
- Shields from environmental factors: The mat board itself acts as a barrier against dust, pollutants, and even UV rays if you choose UV-protective glass and mats.
Enhancing Visual Appeal
- Draws the eye to the artwork: A well-chosen mat creates a visual “stage” for your art, guiding the viewer’s focus and making the piece stand out.
- Balances the composition: The mat adds visual weight and space, helping to balance the proportions of the artwork within the frame.
- Complements the art’s colors and style: Different mat colors and textures can enhance or contrast with the artwork, adding another layer of aesthetic consideration.
- Creates a sense of depth: A mat can make a flat image appear more dimensional.
Adding Value
- Professional presentation: Professionally matted and framed art inherently looks more valuable and finished.
- Longevity: Using archival materials ensures the artwork’s preservation, increasing its long-term value.
Mat Board Types: What You Need to Know
Choosing the right mat board types is fundamental to successful matting artwork. Not all mat boards are created equal, and the quality of your materials directly impacts the preservation of your art.
Common Mat Board Materials
- Wood Pulp/Groundwood: These are the least expensive and least archival. They are made from ground-up wood fibers and often contain lignin, which can yellow and become brittle over time, staining your artwork.
- Pros: Very affordable.
- Cons: Not archival, can yellow and degrade, not suitable for valuable artwork.
- Alpha-Cellulose: This is a purer form of cellulose, derived from wood pulp but with the lignin removed. It’s a good, cost-effective option for general framing.
- Pros: More stable than wood pulp, acid-free for its lifespan.
- Cons: Can still degrade over very long periods, not ideal for museum-quality preservation.
- Cotton Rag (100% Cotton): This is the premium choice for archival framing. Made from cotton linters (a byproduct of cotton processing), these boards are naturally acid-free and lignin-free. They are highly stable and will not yellow or degrade over time, making them perfect for valuable artwork, photographs, and important documents.
- Pros: Archival, acid-free, lignin-free, very stable, won’t yellow or degrade, excellent for valuable items.
- Cons: More expensive than other options.
Mat Board Components
A typical mat board has three layers:
- Facing Paper: This is the visible surface of the mat, available in a wide array of colors and textures.
- Core: This is the inner layer, and its composition (wood pulp, alpha-cellulose, or cotton rag) determines the mat’s archival quality.
- Backing Paper: This is the rearmost layer, which can also vary in quality and archival properties. For the best protection, the backing paper should also be acid-free.
Archival Matting
Archival matting refers to using materials that will not damage your artwork over time. This primarily means using acid-free and lignin-free materials, ideally 100% cotton rag or high-quality alpha-cellulose with acid-free backing.
- Acid-Free: Acids in paper can leach into artwork, causing discoloration, brittleness, and eventual destruction. Acid-free materials have a neutral pH (7.0) or slightly alkaline pH (7.0-8.5).
- Lignin-Free: Lignin is a natural component of wood that breaks down over time, producing acids. Lignin-free mats do not contain this unstable compound.
When in doubt, always opt for 100% cotton rag for any artwork you want to preserve for generations.
Essential Tools for Matting Artwork
Having the right tools makes matting artwork much easier and produces better results.
Cutting Tools
- Mat Cutter: This is the most crucial tool. There are several types:
- Logan Mat Cutter (or similar brands): These are popular and affordable entry-level cutters that use a sliding blade. They are great for beginners.
- Fletcher Mat Cutter: Another well-regarded brand offering various mat cutters.
- Olfa or X-Acto Knives: While you can cut mats with these, it’s very difficult to get precise, clean bevel cuts. They are better for trimming small pieces or general craft use.
- Rotary Cutter: Can be used for straight cuts on mat board if you have a good ruler and cutting mat.
- Cutting Mat: A self-healing cutting mat is essential to protect your work surface and your cutting tool.
- Metal Ruler: A sturdy metal ruler with a non-slip backing is indispensable for guiding your cuts.
Measuring and Marking Tools
- Measuring Tape or Ruler: For precise measurements.
- Pencil: A light, sharp pencil for marking. Use a light touch so marks can be easily erased or are hidden by the mat.
- Eraser: A soft kneaded eraser is best as it won’t damage the mat board.
Other Useful Tools
- Mounting Board/Backing Board: Acid-free board to attach your artwork to.
- Double-Sided Tape or Acid-Free Adhesive: For mounting artwork to the backing board.
- Bone Folder: Useful for scoring and creasing if needed.
- Gloves: Cotton gloves prevent fingerprints and oils from getting on the mat and artwork.
- Masking Tape: For temporarily holding things in place.
How to Cut a Mat: A Step-by-Step Guide
How to cut a mat involves precision and patience. Follow these steps for a clean, professional result.
Step 1: Measure and Plan
- Determine Mat Opening Size: Measure the visible part of your artwork. Subtract a small amount (e.g., 1/4 inch or 6mm) from each dimension to create a slight overlap, ensuring the artwork is fully covered by the mat.
- Example: If your artwork is 8×10 inches and you want a 1/4 inch overlap on all sides, your mat opening will be 7.5 x 9.5 inches.
- Determine Mat Border Width: Decide how wide you want the mat border to be around your artwork. A common aesthetic is to make the bottom border slightly wider than the top and sides to give the impression of better balance.
- Standard Ratio: Top: 2-3 inches, Sides: 2-3 inches, Bottom: 3-4 inches (relative to the size of the artwork).
- Calculate Mat Outer Dimensions:
- Outer Width = Artwork Width + Overlap + (2 x Side Border Width)
- Outer Height = Artwork Height + Overlap + (2 x Top Border Width)
- Example (continuing from above): Artwork 8×10 inches, overlap 1/4 inch. Let’s aim for 2.5-inch side borders and a 3-inch top border, 3.5-inch bottom border.
- Mat Width = 8 inches + 0.25 inches + (2 x 2.5 inches) = 8.25 + 5 = 13.25 inches
- Mat Height = 10 inches + 0.25 inches + (2 x 3 inches) = 10.25 + 6 = 16.25 inches
- Adjusting for bottom border: The bottom border is wider, so the total height should reflect that. If the top border is 3 inches, and the bottom is 3.5 inches, the total height is: Artwork Height + Overlap + Top Border + Bottom Border = 10 + 0.25 + 3 + 3.5 = 16.75 inches. The width would be: Artwork Width + Overlap + Left Border + Right Border = 8 + 0.25 + 2.5 + 2.5 = 13.25 inches.
- So, your mat outer dimensions would be approximately 13.25 x 16.75 inches.
Step 2: Mark the Mat Board
- Lay your mat board on a flat surface with the desired facing side down.
- Using your ruler and pencil, lightly mark the outer dimensions of your mat.
- Now, flip the mat board over so the facing side is up.
- Measure in from the outer edges to mark the opening size.
- Example: For our 13.25 x 16.75 inch mat with a 7.5 x 9.5 inch opening:
- Measure 3 inches down from the top edge and draw a horizontal line. This is the top of your opening.
- Measure 3.5 inches up from the bottom edge and draw a horizontal line. This is the bottom of your opening.
- Measure 2.5 inches in from the left edge and draw a vertical line. This is the left of your opening.
- Measure 2.5 inches in from the right edge and draw a vertical line. This is the right of your opening.
- Example: For our 13.25 x 16.75 inch mat with a 7.5 x 9.5 inch opening:
- You will now have a rectangle marked on the facing side of your mat board.
- Crucially: Draw diagonal lines from the corners of your opening marks to the corners of your outer dimension marks. This helps you align your mat cutter correctly.
Step 3: Prepare Your Cutting Setup
- Place the mat board on your cutting mat.
- Position your metal ruler along one of the marked lines for the opening. Ensure the ruler is firmly against the mat and will not slip. Most mat cutters have a lip on the ruler to guide the cutter.
- Important: For a beveled edge (the angled cut most mats have), the blade should be facing inwards towards the opening when you start.
Step 4: Make the Cuts
- Start with the long sides: It’s generally easier to cut the longer sides first.
- Position the Cutter: Place the mat cutter’s blade at the beginning of your first marked line.
- Apply Pressure: Press down firmly on the cutter.
- Pull the Cutter: Pull the cutter smoothly along the ruler’s edge, keeping firm pressure. Most cutters require a continuous pull for a clean cut. You may need to score the board a couple of times.
- Repeat for all four sides: Carefully reposition the ruler and repeat the process for the remaining three sides of the opening.
- Remove the Cut-Out: Once all four sides are cut, the inner rectangle should be loose. Carefully lift it out.
Tips for Clean Cuts
- Sharp Blades: Always use a sharp blade. A dull blade will tear the mat board, creating a fuzzy or uneven edge. Change blades frequently.
- Consistent Pressure: Maintain even pressure throughout the cut.
- Smooth Motion: Avoid jerky movements.
- Practice: Your first few cuts might not be perfect. Practice on scrap pieces of mat board.
Matting Techniques: Elevating Your Art
Beyond a simple single mat, various matting techniques can enhance your artwork’s presentation.
Single Matting
This is the most basic and common technique, using one mat board around the artwork.
Double Matting
Double matting involves using two mats, one layered on top of the other. This creates more visual interest, depth, and allows for color coordination.
- How it works:
- Cut the outer mat (the one that will be visible on the outside).
- Cut a slightly smaller opening in the outer mat than the actual artwork size.
- Cut the inner mat (the bottom mat). Its opening should be the exact size of your artwork.
- The outer mat’s opening is cut so that when the inner mat is placed behind it, a sliver (usually 1/8 to 1/4 inch) of the inner mat’s color shows around the opening.
- Process:
- Cut the inner mat to the desired outer dimensions.
- Cut the outer mat to slightly larger dimensions (e.g., 1/4 inch larger on all sides than the inner mat).
- Mount the artwork onto the inner mat.
- Position the outer mat over the inner mat and artwork.
- Tape the two mats together securely, or use a reversible adhesive if preferred.
- Alternatively, and more commonly for a “reveal,” cut the outer mat with a slightly smaller opening than the artwork. Then, cut the inner mat with a slightly larger opening. Place the artwork on the inner mat, and then place the outer mat on top, creating the reveal.
V-Groove Matting
V-groove matting is a decorative technique where a narrow, V-shaped channel is cut into the surface of the mat board, usually parallel to the opening or a decorative border.
- How it’s done: This requires a specialized mat cutter accessory or a V-groove cutting tool. The tool is set to a specific depth and angle to shave off the top layer of the mat board, revealing the core color underneath in a clean line.
- Uses: Adds subtle elegance, separates colors in double matting, or creates decorative patterns.
French Matting
French matting, also known as reverse beveling, involves cutting the mat with a reverse bevel. Instead of the bevel facing the artwork, it faces outwards. This creates a rounded, softer edge.
- How it’s done: Requires a mat cutter specifically designed for reverse bevels or careful modification of a standard cutter.
- Aesthetics: Offers a softer, more artistic look, often used for antique or delicate artwork.
Offset Matting
This is a variation where the mat opening is not centered. It’s often used to highlight a specific part of the artwork or to balance a composition with significant negative space. The bottom border is still typically made wider.
Decorating with Mats: Creative Ideas
Decorating with mats can transform a simple frame job into a work of art itself.
Color Choices
- Neutral: White, off-white, cream, and grey mats are versatile and let the artwork speak for itself.
- Complementary: Choose a mat color that complements the dominant colors in your artwork.
- Contrasting: A contrasting color can make the artwork “pop” but use with caution so it doesn’t overpower the art.
- Color Coordination: For double matting, consider a neutral outer mat with a colored inner mat, or vice-versa.
Texture and Finish
- Smooth: The most common finish.
- Linen or Fabric Texture: Adds a tactile element and a touch of luxury.
- Metallic or Pearlescent: For contemporary or striking pieces.
Multi-Opening Mats
Cut a single mat board with multiple openings to display a series of related photos or artworks together. This is a great way to tell a story or showcase a collection.
Mat Libraries and Collections
Many framing suppliers offer “mat libraries” or collections with pre-selected color combinations and textures designed for specific art styles or themes.
Mounting Your Artwork
Once your mat is cut, you need to mount your artwork securely and archivally.
Methods of Mounting
- Hinging (for valuable/delicate art):
- Use a small piece of archival tape (like linen or Japanese paper tape) folded into a hinge.
- Attach one side of the hinge to the back of the artwork (usually the top edge).
- Attach the other side of the hinge to the acid-free backing board, positioning the artwork correctly behind the mat opening.
- This allows for expansion and contraction of the artwork without damaging it.
- Acid-Free Double-Sided Tape:
- Apply a small amount of archival double-sided tape to the back of the artwork.
- Carefully place the artwork into the mat opening, ensuring it’s straight and covers the opening evenly.
- Press firmly to adhere.
- This is suitable for less delicate items like prints or photos that don’t require the flexibility of a hinge.
- Mounting Strips or Corners:
- These are archival-quality plastic or paper strips that hold the artwork without adhesive directly on the art.
- The artwork is slid into these holders.
Positioning the Artwork
- Place the mat face down.
- Place the backing board face down on top of the mat.
- Carefully position the artwork on the backing board behind the mat opening. Use a ruler to ensure even spacing on all sides.
- Once you are happy with the positioning, secure the artwork to the backing board using your chosen method (hinge, tape, etc.).
- Then, secure the backing board to the mat board using your preferred method (often archival tape around the edges, or by placing it into the frame which holds it all together).
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: How do I know what size mat to get?
A1: You’ll need to measure your artwork and decide on the desired border width. The mat opening should be slightly smaller than your artwork (typically 1/8″ to 1/4″ overlap) to hide the edges. The outer dimensions of the mat will be determined by your artwork size plus the desired border width on all sides.
Q2: Can I use regular cardboard for matting?
A2: It’s highly recommended to use archival matting materials. Regular cardboard or standard mat board often contains acids that will yellow, degrade, and eventually damage your artwork. Always opt for acid-free or cotton rag mat board for the best preservation.
Q3: How thick should my mat board be?
A3: Mat boards come in various thicknesses, commonly referred to as “ply.” Standard thickness is 4-ply, which is about 1/16th of an inch. Thicker boards like 8-ply (about 1/8th inch) can provide a more substantial look and are good for larger openings or decorative techniques like V-groove matting. For most beginner projects, 4-ply is perfectly suitable.
Q4: What’s the difference between a bevel cut and a straight cut on a mat?
A4: A bevel cut has an angled edge, typically around 45 degrees, which reveals the core of the mat board. This is the most common and professional-looking cut. A straight cut is a 90-degree cut, giving a sharp, square edge. Bevel cuts are standard when using a mat cutter.
Q5: How do I clean a mat that has a smudge on it?
A5: For light smudges on the visible surface, a soft, white eraser (like a kneaded eraser) or a dedicated art gum eraser can be used very gently. Always test in an inconspicuous area first. For more significant smudges or on colored mats, it’s often best to start with a fresh mat, as cleaning can sometimes alter the color or texture.
Q6: Can I cut mats for photographs?
A6: Absolutely! Matting is highly recommended for photographs to protect them from touching the glass and to enhance their presentation. Use archival quality mats for all photographs you wish to preserve.
Q7: What is a “reveal” in matting?
A7: A “reveal” refers to a small border of the mat beneath the top mat showing through the opening of the top mat. This is common in double matting, where a sliver of the inner mat’s color is visible around the artwork opening, adding depth and color contrast.
Q8: How do I mount artwork that is not flat?
A8: For slightly wavy or textured artwork, using archival mounting strips or a flexible hinging method is best. This allows the artwork some movement without stressing the paper or the mounting.
Q9: What does “custom matting” mean?
A9: Custom matting refers to mats that are cut to specific, non-standard sizes or with unique opening shapes or decorative features (like V-groove matting or double matting) to perfectly complement a particular piece of artwork and frame. It contrasts with pre-cut mats that come in standard sizes.
Q10: How can I avoid the mat moving inside the frame?
A10: Ensure your mat and artwork are securely adhered to a backing board that fits snugly within the frame. You can also use frame points or glazier points to hold the backing board, mat, and artwork assembly in place within the frame rabbet.
This comprehensive guide provides a solid foundation for anyone looking to learn how to mat art. With practice and attention to detail, you’ll be creating beautifully presented and protected artwork in no time!