Can you frame art yourself? Yes, you absolutely can frame art yourself with a bit of practice and the right guidance! This guide will walk you through the steps to achieve a professional look for your artwork through DIY framing.
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Why Frame Your Art?
Framing your art isn’t just about making it look good; it’s about preserving it. A frame protects your artwork from dust, moisture, and harmful UV rays, especially if you choose the right kind of glass. It also adds a finished look, making your art stand out on your walls. For those considering professional framing, understanding the DIY process can help you appreciate the value and craftsmanship involved, and potentially save money on simpler projects.
Deciding on the Right Frame
The first step in framing is choosing the right frame for your artwork. This involves considering the style of the art, your home decor, and the size of the piece.
Materials for Your Frame
The world of framing materials is vast. Here are some common options:
- Wood: A classic choice, wood offers warmth and can be stained or painted in various finishes. Different wood types have different grains and strengths.
- Hardwoods: Oak, maple, and cherry are durable and offer a rich look.
- Softwoods: Pine and poplar are lighter and more affordable, but can be prone to dents.
- Metal: Aluminum and steel frames provide a modern, sleek look. They are durable and often thinner than wood frames.
- Plastic/Resin: These are budget-friendly options that can mimic the look of wood or metal. They are lightweight but may not be as durable.
When choosing, think about the weight of your artwork. Heavier pieces require sturdier frames.
Frame Styles
- Ornate: These frames have decorative carvings and embellishments, often suited for traditional or vintage art.
- Simple/Minimalist: Clean lines and smooth finishes are perfect for modern and contemporary art.
- Shadow Box: These frames have a deeper profile, ideal for mounting artwork that has a bit of depth, like photographs with mats, small 3D objects, or textiles.
The Importance of Matting Your Art
Matting art is a crucial step in professional framing. A mat serves several purposes:
- Aesthetic Appeal: It creates a visual “breathing room” around your artwork, drawing the viewer’s eye to the piece itself.
- Protection: It keeps the artwork from touching the glass, preventing moisture damage and potential sticking.
- Dimension: It adds depth and sophistication to the presentation.
Choosing a Mat
- Mat Board Material:
- Acid-Free: This is essential for long-term preservation. Acidic mats can yellow and damage your artwork over time. Museum-quality mats are usually made from cotton rag.
- Regular/Standard: These are more affordable but not suitable for valuable or archival artwork.
- Mat Color:
- White/Off-White: Classic choices that complement most artwork.
- Black/Grey: Can add a dramatic or sophisticated touch.
- Colored Mats: Use with caution to ensure the color enhances, not distracts from, the art.
- Mat Width: The width of the mat should be proportionate to the artwork. A common rule of thumb is to make the top and side margins equal, and the bottom margin wider (often 1.5 to 2 times the side margin) for visual balance.
Mat Cutting
For a truly professional look, the mat should be cut with beveled edges. You can achieve this with a mat cutter, either a handheld version or a larger tabletop model. Precision is key here.
Framing Techniques for Different Artwork
The best framing techniques depend on the type of art you have.
Canvas Framing
Canvas framing is a popular choice. There are a few ways to frame a canvas:
- Stretching and Framing: If your canvas is unstretched, you’ll need to stretch it over a wooden stretcher bar first. Once stretched, it can be placed within a traditional frame.
- Floater Frames: These frames create a gap between the canvas edge and the frame itself, making the artwork appear to “float” within the frame. This is a very popular modern choice for canvas art. The canvas is typically mounted onto a backing board or internal support structure within the floater frame.
- Canvas Wraps: For a more casual look, the canvas can be wrapped around the stretcher bars and stapled on the back. The edges can then be painted to match the artwork or left as is. This can be displayed as is or placed in a very simple, open-backed frame.
Paper Prints and Photographs
For artwork on paper, like prints or photographs, matting art is highly recommended.
- Mounting Artwork:
- Archival Tape: Use acid-free, reversible tape to attach the artwork to the mat’s backing board or directly to the back of the mat.
- Mounting Boards: Use acid-free foam core or mat board as a backing.
Framing Posters and Unframed Prints
For less precious items like posters, you have more flexibility.
- Direct Framing: You can place the poster directly into a frame, perhaps with a simple mat or just a backing board.
- Mounting on Foam Core: For added rigidity and a cleaner look, mount the poster onto foam core board using spray adhesive or a roller adhesive.
Choosing the Right Glass for Frames
The glass is a critical component of your frame. It protects the artwork and impacts the overall appearance.
Types of Glass
- Standard Glass: The most common and affordable. It offers basic protection but can cause glare.
- Plexiglass/Acrylic: Lighter and shatter-resistant, making it a good choice for larger frames or areas where safety is a concern. It can scratch more easily than glass and may develop a static charge that attracts dust.
- UV-Filtering Glass/Acrylic: This type blocks a significant portion of UV rays, which are a primary cause of fading in artwork. This is highly recommended for valuable or archival pieces.
- Anti-Reflective (AR) Glass/Acrylic: This glass has a coating that reduces glare, allowing the artwork to be seen more clearly without reflections.
When selecting glass for frames, consider the value of your artwork and where it will be displayed. For pieces exposed to direct sunlight or in high-traffic areas, UV-filtering and shatter-resistant options are worth the investment.
Essential Framing Tools for DIY Projects
Having the right framing tools makes the process smoother and the results more professional.
Must-Have Tools
- Measuring Tape: Essential for accurate measurements of your artwork, mat, and frame.
- Ruler/Straight Edge: For precise cutting of mats and backing boards.
- Craft Knife/Utility Knife: For cutting mat board, backing materials, and tape.
- Cutting Mat: Protects your work surface when using a craft knife.
- Screwdriver Set: For assembling and disassembling frames.
- Pliers: Useful for removing staples or stubborn pieces.
- Hammer: For tapping in points or brads to secure the artwork in the frame.
- Mounting Tools: Depending on your chosen mounting artwork method, you might need a roller, spray adhesive, or archival tape dispenser.
- Dremel or Rotary Tool (Optional): Can be helpful for notching or sanding frame corners if you’re working with raw wood.
- Frame Hardware: Hanging wire, D-rings, sawtooth hangers, and screws.
Step-by-Step Guide to DIY Framing
This guide covers the core steps for framing most types of artwork.
Step 1: Measure Everything Accurately
- Artwork: Measure the exact width and height of your artwork.
- Mat: If using a mat, determine the desired opening size (usually slightly smaller than your artwork, e.g., 1/4 inch less on each side). Measure the outside dimensions of the mat board to ensure it fits your frame.
- Frame: Measure the inside dimensions of your frame molding.
Table: Measurement Guide
| Item | Measurement Needed |
|---|---|
| Artwork | Width (W) and Height (H) |
| Mat Opening | W – (Gap), H – (Gap) (Gap is usually 1/4 inch total) |
| Mat Outer Size | Must fit frame (e.g., 8×10 inches for an 8×10 frame) |
| Frame Rabbet | The recessed area where the artwork/glass sits inside the frame. |
Step 2: Prepare Your Mat and Artwork
- Mat Cutting: If you’re cutting your own mat, use a mat cutter for precise, beveled edges. Ensure the opening is exactly the size you need.
- Mounting:
- Place your artwork onto the mat.
- Use archival tape to hinge the top edge of the artwork to the mat. This allows the artwork to expand and contract with humidity without buckling. Ensure the tape is applied to the back of the artwork’s top edge and then adhered to the mat.
- Alternatively, you can use archival mounting corners or photo corners.
Step 3: Assemble the Frame Components
- Glass/Acrylic: Clean the glass or acrylic thoroughly with a glass cleaner and a microfiber cloth.
- Mat and Artwork: Carefully place the mat (with the mounted artwork) onto the glass/acrylic, ensuring it is centered.
- Backing Board: Place a backing board (acid-free foam core or mat board) on top of the mat. This provides rigidity and protection.
Step 4: Securing the Artwork in the Frame
This is where framing techniques really come into play for a secure and professional finish.
- Framing Tools for Securing:
- Glazier Points/Brads: These small metal points are pushed into the back of the frame molding to hold the glass, mat, and backing board in place. A glazier point tool or a flathead screwdriver can be used to push them in.
- V-Nails/Frame Connectors: If you’re joining frame corners yourself, V-nails are used to reinforce the mitered joints.
- Gesso/Wood Glue: For strengthening mitered corners before assembly.
- The Process:
- Lay the frame face down.
- Carefully place the clean glass or acrylic into the frame’s rabbet.
- Place the mat and artwork assembly on top of the glass.
- Add the backing board.
- Gently turn the frame so the back is accessible.
- Use your chosen securing method (glazier points, brads, or specialized framing clips) to firmly hold all layers in place against the frame. Space them evenly around the perimeter. For a professional finish, many people use a framing tool called a point driver.
Step 5: Attaching Hanging Hardware
- Weight of Artwork: The type of hanging hardware you use depends on the weight of the framed piece.
- D-Rings and Wire: For medium to heavy pieces, attach D-rings to the sides of the frame, about one-third of the way down from the top. Thread picture wire through the D-rings and twist it securely. Ensure the wire is taut but has a slight sag, allowing the picture to hang straight.
- Sawtooth Hangers: Suitable for lighter frames. They attach directly to the center of the top frame rail.
- Wall Anchors: Always use appropriate wall anchors for your wall type (drywall, plaster, etc.) to ensure the artwork hangs securely.
Advanced Framing Techniques and Tips
To elevate your DIY framing to a professional level, consider these advanced tips.
Double or Triple Matting
Using multiple mats of varying widths and colors can add significant depth and visual interest. For example, a thin black mat on top of a wider cream mat can enhance a black-and-white print.
Custom Mat Cuts
Beyond standard bevels, you can explore:
- V-Grooves: A decorative channel cut into the top mat.
- Reverse Bevel: The mat edge is cut at an angle away from the artwork.
- Window Mats: Cutting openings in the mat for multiple small photos or pieces of artwork.
French Matting
This technique involves a thin bevel-cut mat placed directly against the artwork, followed by a wider mat. It’s a subtle but elegant way to highlight a piece.
Linen Liners
These fabric-covered inserts can be placed around the artwork, between the mat and the frame, adding a luxurious texture.
Specialty Framing
- Floating Artwork: As mentioned with canvas framing, this involves mounting the artwork onto a backing board that is then secured to the frame, creating a visible gap.
- Shadow Boxes: For framing memorabilia, collections, or textiles. This requires a deeper frame profile to accommodate the items.
What to Avoid in DIY Framing
Even with the best intentions, some common mistakes can detract from your professional framing efforts.
Common Pitfalls
- Using Acidic Materials: This is the most critical mistake for artwork preservation. Always use acid-free mats, backing, and tapes.
- Artwork Touching the Glass: This can lead to moisture damage and the artwork sticking to the glass. Always use a mat or spacers.
- Overly Tight Framing: Don’t force the artwork into the frame. Allow a little room for expansion and contraction.
- Insecure Hanging Hardware: Using hardware that’s too weak for the frame’s weight is dangerous.
- Poorly Cut Mats: Jagged or uneven mat cuts immediately signal a DIY job. Invest in a good mat cutter or get mats professionally cut.
- Wrong Type of Glass: Using standard glass where UV protection is needed can lead to irreversible damage.
When to Consider Professional Framing
While DIY framing is rewarding, there are times when seeking professional framing services is the best option:
- Valuable or Sentimental Artwork: For irreplaceable pieces, the expertise and archival materials used by professionals offer peace of mind.
- Complex Framing Needs: If you want intricate matting, complex shadow boxes, or framing for delicate textiles, a professional framer has the specialized tools and experience.
- Large or Heavy Pieces: Professionals have the equipment to handle and secure large and heavy items safely.
- Limited Time or Skill: If you don’t have the time or confidence to tackle a project, professional framers can deliver excellent results.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: How do I clean the glass in my frame?
A: Use a dedicated glass cleaner and a clean microfiber cloth. Spray the cleaner onto the cloth, not directly onto the glass, to avoid liquid seeping behind the mat. For anti-reflective glass, use cleaners specifically designed for coated surfaces.
Q2: Can I frame a canvas without stretching it?
A: Yes, you can use floater frames, which are designed to house unstretched canvases. The canvas is typically mounted to a hidden support structure within the frame.
Q3: What is the standard mat border size?
A: While there’s no strict rule, a common starting point is 2-3 inches for the top and sides, and 3-4 inches for the bottom. This varies based on the artwork’s size and composition.
Q4: Is it cheaper to frame art yourself?
A: Often, yes, especially for simpler frames and if you have some basic tools. However, for complex designs or if you need to purchase specialized framing tools, the cost can add up. Professional framing costs reflect materials, labor, and expertise.
Q5: How do I mount artwork that is fragile?
A: For fragile artwork, use reversible mounting artwork techniques like archival photo corners or a simple hinge with archival tape applied only to the mat and a small portion of the artwork’s back. Avoid adhesives that are not archival or reversible.
Q6: What’s the difference between a frame and a mat?
A: A frame is the outer structure that surrounds the entire piece, while a mat is a border that sits between the artwork and the glass, creating a visual space and protection.
By following these detailed tips and framing techniques, you can successfully frame your art at home, achieving a beautiful, professional look that preserves your cherished pieces for years to come.