How To Seal A Watercolor Painting & Protect It

Can you seal a watercolor painting? Yes, you can seal a watercolor painting to protect it from damage, fading, and smudging. What is the best way to seal a watercolor painting? The best way depends on your goals, but generally involves careful application of a spray sealant or varnish designed for artwork.

Watercolor paintings are delicate. The pigments are water-soluble and can easily smudge or run if they get wet. Over time, exposure to light and air can also cause colors to fade. Fortunately, there are several ways to seal and protect your watercolor art, ensuring its beauty lasts for years to come. This guide will walk you through the process, covering different methods and materials, and answering common questions about protecting watercolor art.

How To Seal A Watercolor Painting
Image Source: ohshecreates.com

Why Seal Your Watercolor Painting?

Before diving into the “how,” let’s explore the “why.” Sealing your watercolor painting serves several crucial purposes:

Preventing Smudging: The most immediate benefit of sealing is preventing watercolor smudging. The water-soluble nature of watercolors means that even a slightly damp cloth or careless touch can mar the artwork. A sealant creates a protective barrier.
UV Protection: Sunlight contains ultraviolet (UV) rays that can degrade pigments over time, causing colors to fade. Many archival sealants offer UV protection, acting like sunscreen for your artwork.
Dust and Grime Resistance: A sealed surface is smoother and less likely to attract and hold dust, dirt, and airborne pollutants. This makes cleaning easier and helps maintain the vibrancy of the colors.
Moisture Resistance: While not making it waterproof, a sealant offers a degree of protection against accidental splashes or high humidity.
Color Enhancement: Some varnishes can subtly enhance the richness of the colors, giving the painting a more finished appearance.

Methods for Sealing Watercolor Paintings

There are two primary methods for archival sealing watercolor paintings: using a fixative for watercolor and applying a varnish. While often used interchangeably, they have slightly different purposes and applications.

1. Using a Fixative for Watercolor

A fixative is typically a clear, thin spray that helps to bind the watercolor pigments to the paper. It’s especially useful for preventing dry media, like charcoal or pastel, from smudging, but it also works on watercolors.

When to Use a Fixative:

Before Varnishing: Applying a light coat of fixative before varnishing watercolor can help ensure the varnish adheres better and prevent any unexpected reactions with the paint.
For Light Protection: If you don’t want a glossy finish or a significant change in the painting’s texture, a fixative can offer a basic level of protection against smudging and light fading.
For Mixed Media: If your watercolor painting includes other dry media, a fixative is essential to secure those elements.

Types of Fixatives:

Workable Fixatives: These are designed to be applied in multiple layers. You can paint over a layer of workable fixative. They offer less permanence but allow for adjustments.
Final Fixatives: These are applied once the artwork is complete and provide a more permanent seal.

How to Apply a Fixative:

Applying fixative requires patience and care to avoid uneven coverage or damage to the painting.

Materials You’ll Need:

Your finished watercolor painting
Artist-grade spray fixative (e.g., Krylon, Golden, Sennelier)
Cardboard or paper to create a spray booth
Gloves and mask (for ventilation)
A well-ventilated area

Steps:

Prepare Your Workspace: Find a well-ventilated area, preferably outdoors or in a garage with the door open. Set up a spray booth using cardboard boxes or large sheets of paper to contain overspray and protect surrounding surfaces.
Ensure Painting is Completely Dry: This is crucial. Wait at least 24-48 hours, or even longer, after finishing your painting.
Test the Fixative: Always test the fixative on a scrap piece of the same watercolor paper you used for your painting, ideally with a similar color swatch. This helps you see how it affects the paper and colors. Look for any discoloration, darkening, or blooming (a milky or cloudy appearance).
Shake the Can: Shake the spray can vigorously for at least one minute before and during application.
Hold the Can at the Correct Distance: Most fixatives recommend holding the can 10-12 inches away from the painting. Check the specific instructions on your product.
Apply in Light, Even Coats: This is the most important step. Move the can in a steady, sweeping motion, side to side and then top to bottom. Overlap each pass slightly. Do not soak the paper.
Allow Each Coat to Dry: Wait a few minutes (usually 5-10 minutes, check product instructions) between coats.
Apply Multiple Thin Coats: It’s better to apply 2-3 thin coats than one heavy coat. This ensures even coverage and minimizes the risk of drips or pooling.
Let it Cure: Allow the final coat to dry completely according to the product’s instructions. This can take several hours to a full day.

Important Considerations for Fixatives:

Paper Choice: Some papers may react differently to fixatives. Archival papers are generally more stable.
Pigment Sensitivity: While most artist-grade fixatives are safe, some very light or transparent pigments might appear slightly darker or change in tone after application. Testing is key.
Matte vs. Gloss: Most fixatives are matte or have a satin finish. They generally won’t make your watercolor shiny unless specifically designed to do so.

2. Applying Varnish to Watercolor Paintings

Varnishing provides a more robust protective layer than a fixative. It’s like putting a clear coat on a car. Varnishes come in different finishes, such as matte watercolor varnish and gloss watercolor varnish.

When to Use Varnish:

Maximum Protection: If you want the highest level of protection against UV rays, moisture, and abrasion, varnish is the way to go.
Uniform Finish: Varnish can help even out the surface sheen of a watercolor, which can be helpful if you have areas that absorbed more paint than others.
Color Saturation: Certain varnishes, especially gloss finishes, can make colors appear richer and more saturated.
Framing Under Glass: If you plan to frame your watercolor under glass without a mat, a varnish can prevent the painting from sticking to the glass.

Types of Varnishes:

Acrylic Varnishes: These are popular for mixed media and acrylic paintings, but some are formulated to be safe for watercolors. They are typically water-based and can be brushed or sprayed.
Spray Varnishes: These offer the most even application for protecting watercolor art. They are available in various finishes.
Varnish Finishes:
- Matte Watercolor Varnish: This finish reduces glare and maintains the soft, matte appearance of watercolor. It’s often preferred for its subtlety.
- Gloss Watercolor Varnish: This finish enhances color saturation and provides a shiny, reflective surface. It can significantly change the look of a watercolor.
- Satin Varnish: A compromise between matte and gloss, offering a slight sheen without being overly reflective.

How to Apply Varnish:

The application process is similar to fixatives but often requires more caution, especially with brush-on varnishes.

Materials You’ll Need:

Your finished watercolor painting
Artist-grade spray varnish (matte, satin, or gloss)
Cardboard or paper for a spray booth
Gloves and mask
A well-ventilated area

Steps (for Spray Varnish):

Prepare Your Workspace: As with fixatives, ensure a well-ventilated space and set up a spray booth.
Ensure Painting is Completely Dry: Allow ample drying time (at least 24-48 hours, ideally longer).
Test the Varnish: This is absolutely critical. Test on a scrap piece of the same paper with a painted swatch. Observe how the varnish affects the colors, paper texture, and sheen. Some varnishes can cause yellowing or a plastic-like appearance if not applied correctly or if the wrong type is chosen.
Shake the Can: Shake the varnish can vigorously for at least one minute.
Hold Can at Correct Distance: Refer to the product instructions, typically 10-12 inches away.
Apply in Light, Even Coats: Use a steady, sweeping motion. Overlap passes.
Allow Drying Between Coats: Wait 5-15 minutes between coats as per instructions.
Apply Multiple Thin Coats: 2-3 thin coats are preferable to one heavy one.
Let it Cure: Allow the final coat to cure fully. This can take 24 hours or more.

Important Considerations for Varnishes:

“Archival” Designation: Look for varnishes specifically labeled as archival or artist-grade. These are formulated to be stable and non-yellowing over time.
Water-Based vs. Solvent-Based: Water-based acrylic varnishes are generally safer and easier to clean up. Solvent-based varnishes can be more durable but may have stronger fumes and a higher risk of interacting with the watercolor pigments if not applied over a fixative or a fully cured watercolor.
Brush-On Varnishes: If you choose a brush-on varnish, use a soft, high-quality brush. Apply in the direction of the brushstrokes (if any) of your original painting, or in one consistent direction. Avoid going back and forth over wet varnish, as this can create streaks. It’s often best to apply these over a fixative.
Gloss vs. Matte: A gloss watercolor varnish can make colors pop but will change the watercolor’s inherent matte look. A matte watercolor varnish preserves the original appearance but might slightly mute colors compared to gloss.
Compatibility: Always research the varnish’s compatibility with watercolor. Some artists prefer to use a watercolor finishing spray (which is often a type of fixative or light varnish) as a first layer before a more robust varnish.

Important Precautions and Best Practices

Regardless of whether you choose a fixative or a varnish, adhering to best practices is vital for successful archival sealing watercolor.

Testing is Non-Negotiable

We can’t stress this enough: always test your chosen product on a sample piece of the exact same paper with a similar color palette. This is the single most important step to avoid ruining your actual artwork. Observe:

Color Changes: Does the sealant darken or lighten the colors?
Paper Texture: Does it flatten the texture too much or create a plastic feel?
Blooming: Does it create a milky or cloudy effect?
Smudging: Does it effectively prevent smudging?

Ventilation and Safety

Work Outdoors or in a Well-Ventilated Area: Aerosol cans release chemicals. Protect yourself and others.
Wear a Mask and Gloves: This protects your respiratory system and skin from chemical exposure.
Keep Away from Open Flames: Many sprays are flammable.

Application Technique Matters

Thin, Even Coats: This is the golden rule. Multiple thin coats are far better than one thick one.
Consistent Distance: Hold the can or brush at the same distance throughout the application.
Steady Motion: Avoid stopping mid-spray.
Work in Stages: If the painting is large, break it down into sections, ensuring you maintain consistency.

Drying and Curing Times

Patience is Key: Allow adequate drying time between coats and full curing time afterward. Rushing the process can lead to uneven finishes or damage.

Framing Your Watercolor

Once your watercolor is sealed, you’ll want to frame it properly to continue protecting watercolor art.

Acid-Free Materials: Use acid-free mats, backing boards, and mounting tape. Acidic materials can yellow and damage your artwork over time.
UV-Protective Glass or Acrylic: This offers an additional layer of protection against UV rays, especially if your sealant’s UV protection is limited.
Avoid Direct Contact: If using glass, ensure the artwork doesn’t touch it. Use a mat or spacers to create a gap. This prevents the artwork from sticking to the glass due to humidity.

Frequently Asked Questions About Sealing Watercolors

Here are answers to some common questions artists have when sealing watercolor paper.

Q1: Can I seal a watercolor painting with hairspray?

While some artists might use hairspray in a pinch, it’s strongly discouraged for anything you want to preserve. Hairspray is not designed for archival art protection. It can become sticky, yellow over time, attract dust, and potentially damage the pigments. Always opt for artist-grade fixatives or varnishes.

Q2: Will sealing a watercolor painting change its appearance?

Yes, it can. A matte watercolor varnish will maintain the original look, but a gloss watercolor varnish will make colors appear richer and add shine, fundamentally altering the watercolor’s traditional matte finish. Even matte finishes can slightly deepen colors or change the paper’s texture. This is why testing is so important.

Q3: How many coats of sealant should I apply?

Generally, 2-3 thin coats of either fixative or varnish are recommended for adequate protection. Avoid applying more, as too many layers can obscure details or create an undesirable finish.

Q4: Does sealing prevent watercolors from reactivating with water?

A sealant provides a degree of moisture resistance, making it harder for water to reach the pigments. However, most sealants do not make watercolors completely waterproof. Significant exposure to water can still cause damage, especially if the sealant layer is thin or compromised.

Q5: When is it NOT advisable to seal a watercolor painting?

If the painting isn’t fully dry: This is the most common mistake and can lead to disaster.
If you prefer the raw, delicate look of watercolor: Some artists intentionally avoid any surface treatment to preserve the paper’s texture and the unique quality of the medium.
If you plan to frame under glass with a mat: The mat itself offers a good degree of protection, and some artists feel a sealant isn’t necessary in this case. However, sealing can still protect against accidental damage during handling.
If your watercolor is very old and fragile: You might consider consulting a professional art conservator before applying any sealant.

Q6: What’s the difference between a fixative and a varnish for watercolors?

A fixative is primarily for binding loose particles (like dry media) and offering a basic level of smudge protection. A varnish offers a more durable protective layer, often with UV protection, and can alter the surface sheen. Think of a fixative as a primer and a varnish as the topcoat. Many artists use a light fixative spray before applying varnish for enhanced adhesion and protection.

Q7: Can I use a watercolor finishing spray?

Yes, a watercolor finishing spray is a good option. These sprays are typically formulated to be gentle on watercolor paints and papers, offering light protection against smudging and environmental factors without significantly altering the appearance. They are a great middle ground between no protection and a full varnish.

Conclusion

Sealing your watercolor paintings is an important step in protecting watercolor art and ensuring its longevity. By understanding the differences between fixatives and varnishes, choosing the right products, and applying them carefully, you can safeguard your beautiful artwork for years to come. Remember, meticulous preparation and testing are your best allies in this process. With the right approach, your watercolors will continue to bring joy and color to the world, safe from the ravages of time and the environment.